Saravanaas

As I've written before, finding good Indian food in NYC is not an easy task. However, the opening of Saravanaas has truly improved the Indian restaurant scene!

Open since only last Thursday, this cheery little place was packed last night, even 30 minutes before closing. But although there were many patrons, the service was charming and attentive. (A word to the meatophiles: Saravanaas is completely vegetarian.)

The menu includes appetizers, a dosa corner, thalis, a rice corner and a bread corner. I am of the "try as much as you can" school, so I ordered a thali, or, combination meal. Paying lip service to moderation, I asked for the smallest thali, the mini tiffin.

Along came a round silver tray on which sat a gut-busting variety of food. "Is that all for me?" I asked, astonished. There was a Thermos-sized masala dosa with a side of lentil gravy, a portion of idli stew, a mound of roasted farina, coconut chutney and a spicy green mayonnaise-like sauce, and finally, a "sweetmeat." The masala dosa, a kind of crispy crepe, was ultra-light and contained a toothsome spiced mashed potato filling. I'm truly a fan of idli, the little lentil-flour frisbees that are somewhat akin to gnocchi, so I enjoyed the stew of carrots, green beans and idli with a bit of bay leaf and mustard seed. The chili-spiced farina was mixed with onions, tomatoes and peas. Everything was gloriously spicy. "Hot enough for you?" asked the waiter. "We want to see you glow!"

After enjoying a few bites of raisin-studded sweetmeat and a sip of mango lassi, it was finally time to go. (Upon leaving, I noticed a pile of advertisements for a yoga class. As if one could even think of exercising after such a meal!)

Saravanaas: 81 Lexington Ave., (212) 679-0204.